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Field notes

A slower way to see Kathmandu

Why the valley rewards travellers who leave space for courtyards, kitchens and unplanned conversations.

Kathmandu is easy to rush. The temples, traffic and tour buses can make the city feel like a checklist. But the valley opens up when you walk a little more slowly and let the day breathe.

Start early, choose one neighbourhood and let your guide introduce you to the people behind the monuments: a metalworker in Patan, a family running a small lunch kitchen, a courtyard that has been in the same family for generations.

Leave the afternoon free. The best moments in Kathmandu are usually the ones you did not schedule.